Bengal Kitten Care Guide

The time for your kitten to join you is coming near. She/he is strong, healthy, confident & growing more content to have time away from mum everyday.
Our kittens are a pleasure to raise and are always greatly missed. Update photos are always appreciated.

Purchases To Make

Your kitten will need you to make a few purchases before she/he arrives.

  • Connector.

    Food Bowl

    A heavy ceramic bowl is best or a stainless steal bowl

  • Connector.

    Water Bowl

    Please choose a large ceramic bowl for your kittens water. Or make a pet water fountain purchase

  • Connector.

    Cat Bed

    Our cats love their beds. Any type of warm, inviting bed will suit your kitten. Hooded beds are loved by many younger kittens as they offer security

  • Connector.

    Scratching Pole

    Look for a strong, well crafted cat pole with good stability. Cats prefer poles with sisal roping and hamocks

  • Connector.

    Cat Litter

    Your kitten has been raised on Horse and Pony Pellets for a natural litter source. You can use Chook Pellets, Breeders Choice or Cats Best Oko Plus. All of these litters are organic friendly and your kitten should have no issues using any of them

  • Connector.

    Cat Litter Tray x 2

    You will need a minimum of 2 litter trays per cat. High sided (30cm) is ideal. We use large clear and coloured plastic storage tubs. Our tubs are around 60cm long x 40cm wide x 30cm deep.

  • Connector.


    Toys are always going to be needed. Some toys will need to be put away after play. Please check the safety aspects of the toys you choose. Also monitor your kitten for signs of digesting parts of toys. ie: the pollyfill stuffing. This can be eaten and cause gut blockages.

Feeding Your Kitten Commercial Food

There are a number of very good reasons for feeding a commercial wet food diet.

  • Commercial food provides accurate vitamins, nutrients and minerals per serve. There is no guess work or maths needed to ensure your kitten is gaining a balanced diet for maximum growth and health when they need it most.
  • Commercial foods are fast and easy to serve, where meal preperation time may be an issue in some busy households.
  • Commercial foods can be left down for longer than raw meals as they are processed not to breed bacteria

We feed Royal Canin kitten tins. Fancy Feast kitten tins.

Meal Size: Give 1/2 a tin morning and night

Dry Food

Please leave dry food down for your kitten 24/7. Kittens do not tend to over eat. They do burn off energy fast and will need to replenish after a big play.

Feeding Your Kitten Raw Food

We suggest you do not feed your kitten entirely on a raw food diet.  Your kitten will be constantly growing and it takes a lot of weekly maths to ensure you are giving your kitten the correct amount of nutrients needed for bone, organ and brain growth.  The correct ratios are vitally important and this ratio changes weekly with kitten growth.

A full raw food diet can be introduced once your kitten reaches full organ maturity at the age of 9 months.

Our adults are all offered commercial, a raw food mix and dry food biscuits.  We make our raw food from scratch using human grade meats.

If you choose to feed raw you will need:

Large food grade buckets & a commercial sized grinder which can do chicken legs for bone.  Or you can ask your butcher to grind the meat for you.


Choosing To Feed Raw Food

Feeding white meats: Chicken or Turkey Please package larger amounts into daily meal portions of around 120 to 200 grams and freeze for 48 hours prior to feeding as this helps to kill bacteria. These meats can carry a high range of bacteria’s which can affect your kittens digestive system.

Feeding Red Meats: Lamb or Steak These meats are fine to feed raw, but do remember worms can be found in raw red meats. It will be important for you to remember to worm your kitten every 3 months to maintain optimum health.

  • Do Not Feed
    Roo meat is very rich and may upset your kittens tummy. Wait until your kitten is around 9 months of age before incorporating Roo meat into their diet. By this age their tummy’s are fully developed and can handle the richness.
  • Pork is the hardest of all meats to digest. There is no need for your kitten to be offered pork.
  • Milk & Kitten Milks All cats and kittens are lactose intolerant and the only milk they can digest is Lactose Free Milk. Please check the labels to avoid a tummy upset.
Raw Food Issues

An unbalanced raw food diet can have devastating health effects on your kittens longevity.

Issues with raw food given to kittens under the age of 9 months:

Kittens tummies and immune systems can not deal with the following parasites and bacterias commonly found in raw meats.

Bacterias in meats

  • Salmonella
  • E coli
  • Coccidiosis
  • toxoplasmosis

Preservatives in meats:

  • Preservatives are dangerous for kittens and cats. All meats need to be preservative free.

When a diet is unbalanced:

  • Turine deficiency can have devastating effect on your kitten.  This is much needed for their brain, heart and muscle development.
  • Any vitamin deficiency can cause irreversible issues
  • A bone/calcium overdose /underdosecan cause a number of issues

Our Adult & Kitten Raw Diet Mix

Beef Mince – 3kg
Chicken Legs – 3kg
Chicken Necks 1kg
Chicken hearts 1kg
Chicken livers 2kg
Chicken Gizzards 2kg
Jalna Original Yoghourt 1kg
Water 1 litre
Kitty Bloom Mineral & Vitamin Supplement. (ordered from the USA. There is only one USA company that has the licencing to ship this product to Australia) You will find simular supplements at leading pet stores.

Pack daily portions into snap lock bags and freeze. To defrost, put the plug in the sink and cover with hot water from the tap. This takes 5 to 10 minutes. Then place it in a container and pop it in the fridge. We feed two wet feeds a day.
We feed between 120 grams to 180 grams per cat each day.
Feeding Raw
If you decide to offer a raw food diet, please make a note of the importance of maintaining the correct Taurine and Calcium levels. Many cats suffer from taurine and calcium deficiencies and the effects can be devastating.

Chat to your Vet
Your vet is a wealth of dietary information for you and your new kitten/cat. Have a chat with them about the diet you plan to offer.

Litter Box Rules

You will need to purchase two litter boxes for your kitten. This is really important. Even if you have existing cats and trays in the house, it’s important to begin your new kitten with new trays of his/her own. This removes them feeling intimidated by the smell of your other cats and allows them to settle in far better.

We use large plastic storage tubs. They are easy to clean and are fantastic for stopping litter spilling out of the box. Cats can be funny about their litterbox and these open boxes allow your cat to see what’s going on around them while they use the tray. This gives them far more comfort than when they are trapped in an enclosed style tray.

    There are litter box rules you must get used of to ensure your cat always uses the tray and doesn’t feel the need to go elsewhere.

    1 cat or kitten needs to have 2 trays. They will often separate their business.

    2 cats need a minimum of 3 trays. To save arguments and toilet issues have four. 2 trays for each.

  • The litter should be at a depth of 15cm. Nothing less. This is very enticing to the cats and its far better they create good toileting habits rather than poor ones outside of the litterbox.

Litter For The Litterbox

Our top three litters to use are:
Breeders Choice is easy to obtain and can be purchased from leading supermarkets. This is an all natural litter and is cost effective, but does lack some odour control, especially in Summer. This suits a cost effective multi cat households.

Horse and Pony Pellets This is a very low cost effective litter substitute. It does have a clumping ability and can be purchased at all Fodder Stores. The purchase is in bulk, so take storage into account. (we use large plastic bins to store this). This is great for cost, it’s all natural and does have a good odour control. Perfect for the multi cat household. This is the litter we use.

Cats Best You will not find better than this! Cats Best is the leader in odour control and also has germ control. This stuff is an expensive outlay, but you will change this litter far less often and you will find it will last a few months. The length of time this product lasts, actually makes it extremely cost effective. You’ll have no odour and the cats love it. It’s an all natural product and is suitable for one to two cats within the home. (with more cats in the home, it may become less cost effective than the other two chocies)

Please do not use clumping or crystal litters.

Clumping litters can be ingested and can cause life threatening blockages.

Crystal litters have silica dust in them. This is unhealthy for lungs. They walk in it, then lick their paws and ingest it.

Veterinary Care | Pedigree Papers

Your kittens worming regime is: Milbemax. They are fully wormed every two weeks from 6 weeks of age. Please re-worm your kitten every 3 months.

Your kitten has had no need of a flea treatment as we have a flea free environment. Should she/he need to begin treatment for fleas as she/he gets older, please use Front-Line. This is an on the back of the neck treatment. Non-invasive & non-stressful to give.

Your kitten will be given her/his first Vaccination at approximately 11 weeks of age. She/he will need to visit your vet at 15 to 16 weeks of age for her/his final Booster Shot. (please double check the date specified on your kittens vaccination certificate.) She/he will be F3 vaccinated as some Bengals are known to have reactions to F4. If you would like your kitten to be vaccinated with an F4 vaccine, we suggest you wait until she/he is 12 months old & fully grown. You will receive a card that contains the vaccination date and batch number when you pick your kitten up. (when kittens are flown, the paperwork can be found in a water proof satchel under the bottom floor mat of their flight crate.)

Your kitten will be been spayed/neutered before leaving my care. Please keep an eye on her midline surgery scar or his testicular area. You will note a small amount of swelling. This will recede over the next 4-6 weeks in girls and 1-2 weeks in boys. All kittens receive pain relief & a long lasting antibiotic injection during surgery for added care. Our aftercare includes, maintaining good blood sugar levels, protextin (gut flora) & electrolytes, plus quite time where they cannot climb or jump or cause an injury to themselves.
A Desexing Certificate will be included within your paperwork.


Your kitten will be microchipped during her/his surgery. This way she/he has not experience any pain. You will find her/his microchip number attached to her/his vaccination card. Your gathered information from our Kitten Application Form has been processed and we have filled out your kittens microchip form and posted it on your behalf. This saves you needing to remember to transfer it and it saves you the expense of the name transfer. You will receive further information directly from the Australasian Animal Registry in around two to four weeks’ time.

Your kittens Litter Registration is processed through FASA. We email our filled out litter and individual registration paperwork to FASA. From there our registrar processes the information into the system then prints and posts your kitten’s pedigree papers directly to you. This takes around two weeks.

Kitten Home Coming

Please ready a sturdy canvas crate or plastic cat carrier (pp20s can be purchased at Pet Barn) to take your kitten home in. Place a soft blanket or towel in the bottom, add a toy or two and drop in a small pinch of dry biscuits to occupy her/him during the pending car trip.

All kittens flying to their new homes are flown in a brand new PP-20 Airline approved flight crate. This is for you to keep. Each kitten flies with a travel blanket and soft toys which cannot cause harm during the flight. These crates are very strong and secure to ensure the best care of your kitten during flight.

The first contact with a new environment, new family and any other pets (dogs or cats already in the house) is a very important moment that will affect the success of your kitten’s integration into its new home. Contact should be made gradually and slowly at your kittens pace

Please prepare a COMFORT ROOM for your kitten. A bathroom or laundry work great. This is very important and it will keep you kitten from feeling overwhelmed with the new space, smells & sounds.
Items to place in the comfort room
Food dish
Water bowl
Litter tray
This room will be used over the next two weeks of your kittens integration into your home. This is where your kitten will sleep at night. Please do not introduce your kitten to your bed in this timeframe. They are still a bit self-conscious in the first few weeks and will often pee on your bed to mix their smell with yours. Avoid allowing this to happen!

This room is their safe room. Should they receive a fright, they will run back to this room and when they’ve regained their confidence to investigate, they will come out. It is better they run to this room than hide under furniture.

This is their memory room. They will quickly learn to remember all of their comforts are in this room. Be sure to utilize this room when you are not able to supervise your kitten.

When you are having your kitten out in the house for some play time and an explore. Be sure to have a litter tray nearby. Show them its there and this way they will be less likely to panic if they should need the toilet urgently but can’t remember the path back to their room.


Remember that your kitten has just been brought into a totally unknown environment. Control your own enthusiasm, be gentle and keep your voice
low. Avoid passing the kitten from one person to another if the kitten seems unsure. You must find the right balance and play with your kitten to continue its social nature.


You alone are now responsible for your kitten’s safety. You have taken over from its mother and us the breeder, and your kitten will now turn to you for affection and protection. Protect your kitten: its growth and balance depend on your care.


Prevention is better than cure! Your new arrival has come to a strange place: let it find its way around at its own pace. It will need to explore at its own rate, getting used to the place and its smell to feel safe and at home. Although we may not realise it, there are a number of dangers in a household, and certain gestures or oversights may threaten your kitten’s safety. You will be able to protect your kitten from possible domestic accidents by adopting new habits and making certain alterations. Check the washing machine, dryer & dishwasher before you close the door and turn it on. Check the fridge is kitten clear before closing the door. Keep an eye on power cords for chewing & put blind cords out of reach. Do not leave the bath tup full of water. Ensure you do not have flowers or plants that are poisonous.


The following plants can cause horrific kidney failure within ½ an hour, if just the smallest amount is sampled by your kitten. Please avoid having these plants or flowers within your kittens/cats reach.

Lilies are the number one killer of cats in households.

cherry tree

Oleander Poinsettia
Sweet peas


General Kitten Maintenance


Please clip your kittens claws once a month. This will ensure they get used of the feeling and it will be beneficial for both you, your kitten & furniture.


Kittens love to have a soft brush run over them. Please remember that grooming is also a bonding experience. Most kitten will grow up to enjoy this time with you.   Do note some kittens find the brushing far too over stimulating and really don’t like it.


Your kitten will be a bundle of excitable energy, while not sleeping. Remember to play lots of games and alternate toys weekly. Plastic drinking straws are a favourite! A cube of ice which can be batted around the floor will entertain. Jingling bells, Cat teasers on a stick and string are fantastic. For the ultimate toys in cat play there are the laser lights & the Da’Bird Cat Toy.

Suggested Reading

There are a great deal of fantastic books available on Cats and their behavioural patterns and personalities. We highly recommend the three below. Available at Amazon. Jackson Galaxy will teach you how to get the best behaviour from your cat.

This book is the Cat Bible! Jackson is literally The Cat Whisperer of all time.

Most behavioural issues happen when us humans are not quite getting things right for our cats.

Remember, cats are far more intelligent and they Show their feelings and dislikes in different ways.

If you are having any issues I highly suggest you Take some time out to read this book or watch Some of his youtube videos.

Jacksons training methods are sure fire winners For both you and your kitten!

Both Jean Mills (the founder of the breed, Millwood Bengals) and Gene Ducote (owner and breeder of the infamous Gogees Bengals) have written books about the Bengals. Their knowledge is the best of the best.

Our beloved Gogees Zulu Warrior is from the final litter ever bred at Gogees Bengals before Gene Ducote retired in 2011.

Cat Enclosures and Catios

A cat enclosure is a wonderful way to offer your kitten or cat some sunshine and fresh air. They love having a little outdoor time, but Bengals are rebound for getting themselves into trouble. They either get lost, hit by cars, attacked by dogs or other cats.

All our kittens are sold with the understanding they will be indoor pets with secure outdoor time via an enclosure. This is for their health and safety.

Enclosures can be great fun and you can be as creative as you want personalising it to suit your cat.

Below are some example enclosures:

Cat Nets

Cat Nip Enclosures

Better Pet Systems

Cat Enclosures on Ebay

Cat Max

We hope you find this guide to your new kitten helpful. If you have any questions at all, please contact us. We’ll be happy to share further information.

PH: Lee on 0435942244
© 2009 This guide remains the sole copyright of Lee Schilling, Bengal Cats Australia. It is not available for redistribution in any form.